From Snowmelt to Shiitake

Log-grown shiitake

I awake to sunlight and the sound of songbirds, their melodic calls a soothing soundtrack to my coffee and scrambled eggs with ramps. Opening the window, I hear their voices amplify, intermingling with the sweet botanical aromas of spring.

Snowdrops and crocuses have already had their moment; daffodils now dance in the gentle breeze as sunlight angles in from the east. Their picturesque golden blooms shine boldly, but droop slightly downward on stems softened by another late frost. Similarly, verdant ostrich ferns now spiral up toward the blue sky, but the fiddleheads that sprung too soon are already limp and stunted, stung by the icy night. The damage is nowhere near as widespread as it was in last May’s killing frost, but it is a reminder that this moment in time can be a capricious dance between winter and spring.

Even in the best of years, meteorological spring precedes mycological spring, with concealed mid-May morels paving the way for June flushes of oyster mushrooms, chicken of the woods, and hemlock varnish shelf.  It won’t be until at least July, perhaps even early August depending on rainfall, when our fridge begins to overflow with a medley of chanterelles, boletes, and black trumpets.

Fortunately, the hardwood logs that rest in crib stacks behind our garage have hit the ground running this year, pinning in late March and then surprising us with steady growth and remarkable cold hardiness. Snowfall slowed down their progress, only for snowmelt and rainfall to invigorate the fruiting bodies with fresh moisture, leading to an abundant April flush.

Shiitake logs can be ‘shocked’ into fruiting by soaking overnight in a tub of water, leading to predictable harvests to align with meals or market. But this early fruiting has been spontaneous and unexpected, adding a layer of surprise and intrigue that feels like backyard foraging as much as cultivation. Sautéed with garlicky ramps, which are now in their prime, our homegrown shiitake have proved a welcome and reliable addition to our diets this April.